As a break from hikes and super active days, which are not difficult to organize when in St. Moritz, I would like to introduce you a place that is perfect for a little chillout. What’s more, it guarantees breathtaking views. And you don’t have to climb here :)
Diavolezza is famous for its beautiful views of the eternal ice and the highest peaks of the Eastern Alps – including Piz Bernina (4049 m). You can get here comfortably by cable car. First of all, it is a wonderful viewpoint on the Pers and Morteratsch glaciers, the Piz Palü and Piz Bernina massif, and looking north – Val Bernina with the Bernina Pass. Just be sure to have a good weather while visiting. I’m a fan of all the foggy and mysterious vibes, but at this height the fog means inability to see further than one meter, so you would miss the whole view. So choose a sunny day with good clarity, and you will not regret it. I had only two such sunny days during my stay in Grisonia and one of them was dedicated to Diavolezza. This place is unique, monumental and hypnotic. It also has a very well organized background to contemplate the surrounding nature.
At 3000 m above sea level there is a panoramic Diavolezza restaurant, which serves regional cuisine. However, its biggest attraction is the possibility to eat outside. You can enjoy your coffee in the sun surrounded by snow-covered peaks. I won’t lie if I add that I ate here the best, traditional Engadine cake (shortcake with caramel and nuts). Everyone deserves such a moment of pleasure!
What’s more, you can spend the night here and enjoy the jacuzzi, with a panoramic view and a glass of prosecco. This time I didn’t try it, but it sounds like one of the best jacuzzi experiences I can imagine.
Besides relaxing, the Diavolezza mountain station also has its active side and it’s a starting point for longer trips in the Bernina region, guided hikes on the Pers and Morteratsch glaciers or on Piz Trovat.
If you decide to go for a smaller climb to Munt Pers, you will reach an unusual place for a barbecue and picnic on Sass Queder. Barbecue on the glacier at an altitude of 3000 m above sea level? Why not?
If you are a fan of winter sports, you will surely be interested in the fact that Diavolezza is famous for its stunning moonlit slopes and the longest glacier slopes in Switzerland.
The legend of the beautiful devil
Just like many mysterious and inaccessible places, Diavolezza has its own legend. According to a story that was passed from generation to generation, many years ago in “Munt Pers” (lost mountain) lived a woman of an extraordinary beauty. In a place where the sun reflected in a blue lake, surrounded by rocks, the woman used to take a refreshing bath. The young hunters happend to see her several times. Short, fleeting moments were enough to delight the hunters and make them reckless. Some of them followed the seductive beauty and never returned.
Aratsch, a handsome young man from the village, also disappeared. People assumed that he has fallen into the icefalls. Then something incredible happened. Everyone who visited the Bernine region at night heard a voice these words: “Mort ais Aratsch, mort ais Aratsch…” (Aratsch is dead).
Was it the beautiful devil “Diavolezza”? Legend says that she didn’t make her peace until the glacier covered the valley with ice . Then she was never seen or heard again. But it doesn’t mean that she is not there anymore…
You can think about it while eating the next piece of cake ;)
Diavolezza – practical tips
- Height: 2973 m above the sea level.
- Access: train from Chur or St. Moritz to Berninan Diavolezza (or bus from Pontresina), cable car to Diavolezza. Note: The ride of the cable car is not covered by the Swiss Travel Pass/GA. Tickets are purchased upon arrival at the station.
- The view: Pers and Morteratsch glaciers, Piz Palü and Piz Bernina and Val Bernina massif with Bernina Pass.
- Attractions: Diavolezza – hikes to the Morteratsch Glacier, two via ferrata hikes of different level of difficulty, overnight in the Berghaus Diavolezza mountain guesthouse, the highest barbecue area, restaurant with a panoramic view.
- Winter: winter sports in the region of Diavolezza and Lagalp, including 10 km of winter downhill runs through the Pers and Morteratsch glaciers.
*** I visited Switzerland as part of collaboration with Switzerland Tourism Board who supported me in all my crazy travel ideas.