Think about it – how many times have you decided to visit a popular tourists spots in absolutely not popular periods? It seems that I, recently, visit the so-called summer destinations in different part of year.
Let’s take autumn as an example. In this year the autumn is very favorable and you might think that it lasts for so long already, prolonging the possibilities for sunny trips for at least few weeks. And the Southern Europe is perfect for this.
In the mid-October with a help of Discover Greece I took an aim at Crete – an island that is definitely related to vacation, heat and crystal clear blue water. But this place has a lot more to offer! I’ve been there for a few days and instantly fallen in love with the autumn climate without heat and crowds, yet rich in delicious seasonal dishes that delight your taste.
When to go to hit the off-season?
Generally, the peak of the season in the southern part of Europe falls on the period between June and September. When it comes to Crete, you should try the periods directly before or after it, so spring (March/April/May) or autumn (end of September, October and the beginning of November).
In the autumn the prices drop, beginning with the flight tickets. I’ve flown from Warsaw to Chani in Crete with stopover in Athens, with Greek Aegean airlines. The round flight cost me ca. 150 euro. You should prepare yourself to the fact that there are no direct flights from Poland to Greece, so no matter which airline you’ll choose, you’d most probably have a stopover in Athens. Usually you have to wait a while for an Athens – Chani flight. While flying to Greece, I’ve waited 2.5 hours at the airport and on my way back – 6 hours. I write about it because it prolongs the journey and you’ll need at least 2 days to visit Crete and come back, so keep that in mind while planning your island vacations there.
Moreover, the hotel rooms are cheaper. You can easily find a place in cozy boutique hotels with view on the sea in very affordable prices. In this period it is much calmer too, you don’t have to fight for your room and book everything with month-long advance. But don’t have the impression that the restaurants are not filled with feasting and laughing Greeks! Another thing that graces this wonderful climate.
And there is a high possibility that the weather would be perfect for long walks on the beach, swimming in the sea (checked it!) and all other outdoor activities. During my stay the sky was cloudy but it gave the landscape such a peculiar and climatic charm that I never missed the blue sky even for one minute. The temperature was always above 20 Celsius, the sea whirled its grey deeps and the clouds seemed to be touching the land. Boy, I tell you, it was so picturesque!
What to do there?
Well, you’re not going there to only lay flat on the beach, are you? These colors and beaches are tempting, you can rest actively, getting to know the other culture, learning new things and spending time close to the nature, as the Crete residents do every day.
And the experiencing, regionality and spending time “Greek style” were my focus during this trip. I’ve made a list of my fav activities and experiences, which I really recommend you to try in while in Greece in autumn.
An afternoon at Mavredakis’ winery
I love to visit wineries, because every element in them seems to be made environment-friendly, using the cycles of nature and with exquisite attention to details. I’ve been to a few such places in the world already and every winery looks different and it is always an interesting experience. This time I was able to visit a Greek winery in autumn. All the trees were covered with rusty red color, looking absolutely fabulously.
The Mavredakis winery is run by a Greek with his partner, which – a super positive and pleasant surprise – is Polish (love to you, Jolanta!). The mandatory point during such visit is of course tasting of wines (we tried 12 different sorts) at a table which literally laden under the weight of real, homemade meals. Let’s be honest – is there a better way to spend an afternoon? :)
Morning at an olive oil mill
Well, Greece is obviously connected with olives and olive oil made of them but only visiting an olive oil mill (like Melissakis Olive Mill) and seeing the production line personally can open your eyes to how much effort it requires and how vast the knowledge on liquid gold is, by the way passed from generation to generation. During such a visit you can thoroughly learn about every step in production of olive oil and see special tubs, in which it is stored. There is also time for tasting various sorts of olive oil. You know, depending on the preparation process, olive oil might have even a dozen aromas (like chocolate or herbal)! The Greeks who professionally manufacture olive oil need only one sip to determine, which kind it is. I’ve tried it as well and, honestly, could not tell even one apart. Greece is the third largest olive oil producer in the world (right after Spain and Italy) and every Greek would tell you that the Greek olive oil is the best and has the oldest traditions. I wouldn’t dare to argue on that!JBy the way – try adding a few drops of vinaigrette or this grape syrup and then dip a slice of bread into it – it’s simple but surprisingly delicious combination!
Day on Hand Picked Greece farm and cooking course
Oh, definitely my favorite day of the trip. Hand Picked Greece is a gorgeous eco-farm run by Greeks with love, passion and in family atmosphere. If any of you loves various cuisines and cooking, interior boho style and lazy time in the garden, common cooking with Greeks and then feasting, with the topping of histories and laughter, I recommend this place with all my heart.
They have there cooking lesson and yoga in garden regularly. We spent few hours picking herbs and vegetables in the garden, making traditional Cretan cheese, prepared tzatziki and grilled meat together and drank lots of local wine.
Then we sat together in an amazing boho arbor, sharing food, drinking raki and sharing stories. Marvelous Sunday evening, which not only brought us closer to Greek culture but also let us be a part of it. Not to mention that we had a chance to meet new people and make new friends. It was a precious and priceless experience, which I will remember for a very, very long time.
Jeep safari day
This was the attraction I was waiting for the most (you know how much I love outdoor activities, off-road cars and adventures) and it did not disappoint me even a little bit. Safari Adventures is an awesome way to spend a day, see rarely visited corners of the island and places, where you can be alone with the nature. And let me tell you, doing this in autumn brings a lot of climate. The hills literally dripping with colors, lots of fruits – from avocado to oranges and lemons, that you drive past and fogs dipping the nearby vineyards.
Our guide was Stelios – a charming guy and nature aficionado. It was not only a mere ride, it was a day filled with Cretan culture. We started with a breakfast in a local Greek cafe, run by a charming mustached Greek (dad, he looked so much alike you!), who inherited it from his father, who inherited from his father, who inherited it… We were entertained with fresh orange juice, Greek coffee and homemade baking (surrounded by 10 cats, lying in wait for our breakfast).
Then we head for White Mountains (Lefka Ori), where one of the longest gorges in Europe is situated – the Samaria. It really was a mountain safari and sometimes I thought that our jeep would not be able to drive up a steep slope but it always did :)
We stopped to visit vineyards, to look for the best views and admire the autumn nature. At the end we had a lunch in a traditional tavern, which looked a little like a school canteen but it served delicious and simple Greek dishes.
Evening for speed boating and diving
Very interestingly, autumn is not a bad time for boating. First of all because in speed boating you’ll be all wet in 10 minutes anyways, as the water splashes and splatters everywhere. So is there really a difference if the water falls on you from above of from the side? ;) During my trip the temperature was always above 20 Celsius and it was enough to make such an excursion along the beach, looking at old Chania harbor.
The autumn sunsets are even more spectacular and intoxicating, so I recommend you to do it in the afternoon so that you could watch the sunset on a boat or jump into bay water – the temperature was really pleasant. We took a boat from Notosmare, which is a family company (surprised anyone? :) ) run by brothers. They can create awesome atmosphere and are able to reach even the most distant and less touristic corners, not only in Crete but in the whole Greece.
Afternoon walking tour in Old Town Chania
For all of you who would like to know more about the fascinating culture melting pot, which made modern Crete what it is. The old harbor in Chani, built in 14th century for commercial goals and to defend the area from pirate attacks, is a magical place. And incredibly filmable spot too. It’s filled with cafes, restaurants and taverns, serving local delicacies, bars, confectioneries and art shops but also with lots of monuments of all different historical periods.
You can distinguish influences of Cretan, Ottoman and Venetian culture. The narrow, pretty streets have a real charm, as well as the splendid architecture of the buildings. It’s like a time travel but in a more pleasant meaning.
My favorite restaurants and super cafes with best Greek coffee
Every day I ate in another place to check as many restaurants as possible and make for you a “must eat” list for Chani. Honestly, I don’t know someone who doesn’t like Greek food and I can’t remember eating anything disgusting in this country. But of course in such a mass of pubs you will always find those, which are extraordinary even for the Greeks themselves. Thanks to the recommendations of my friends living in Chani, I was able to find some of their (and now also my) sweet places to eat.
Salis Restaurant – for the meat lovers. I haven’t eat so delicious stakes and ribs for years! Beautifully served, awesome staff and for the dessert the best chocolate block.
Village coffee shop – lovely, typically Greek cafe, where you can order a genuine, strong coffee, perfect fresh orange juice and eat homemade baking like croissants with salty cheese or sweet cake – similar to pound cake, usually served during weddings. We dropped there for a breakfast on our way to safari in White Mountains and it was a perfect beginning of a perfect day.
Apostolis seafood restaurant – if you love seafood, it’s one of the best restaurants in the old harbor. It is run by the next generation and I had a chance to meet the Apostolis, after whom the restaurant is named) and his son.JThis place is famous of any kind of freshest seafood, because every piece you’ll eat there was fished the very same day. I tried shrimps, squids, mussels and few sorts of fish. All was delicious and has just melt-in-the-mouth texture.
Oinopoiio restaurant – you can’t get better! First of all, the fantastic interior of cellar-like climate – brick walls, shelves with wine bottles, packs of dried herbs hanging everywhere, autumn pumpkins and nuts. Every detail is polished up. The dishes served there are a mix of traditional Greek cuisine with more modern vibe. The effect has really extraordinary taste! Try an a la pizza casserole with egg-plant and roasted chestnut stew. Sensational!
Cactus coffee shop & goodies – this seashore cafe was discovered purely by accident. The name comes from cactuses naturally growing around the place and they are also the main theme. It’s not a traditional Greek cafe but a modern boho place with lots of climate. They generally serve frappe, healthy sweets and everything at the window, where you can look at stormy sea. For me it was a real hit!
What I should definitely try?
Crete has one of the oldest and most delicious cuisines in the world. It is, of course, similar to other Greek styles but there is something in the Cretan style of cooking. It’s healthy, it’s fresh. And simple but in the same time very aromatic and of course delicious. I honestly can’t think of anyone I know who would not like the food prepared in Crete and there are really a lot of them. You should definitely think about trying…
Dakos
It’s similar to Italian bruschetta. Chopped tomato, fresh cheese, herbs, olive oil – all served on a hot crouton. Before eating you pour olive oil on it, to let it moisten a little. Usually eaten as an appetizer but it can replace any light meal.
Cretan Cheese
One thing that is not lacking on Crete is cheese and it’s a part of many meals. But the local cheese is used often, as much as widely known feta, and it is resembles mozzarella. Don’t be surprised when you get it in your Greek salad!
I first saw this difference, when I ordered a Greek salad with the local, soft cheese, instead of classic feta. But don’t panic, they still use plenty of feta there!
Kalitsounia (Cheese Pie)
Kalitsounia pie is usually eaten during Easter but there is no problem to buy it any time of the year. Small pads are formed out of it and then filled with sweet cheese – the type depends on the Crete region. The cookies are then fried or baked and served with cinnamon or sesame.
Gamopilafo
Gamopilafo, translated freely, means “wedding rice”. This meal is served mainly at weddings or traditional feasts in Greece but you can often find it in restaurants too. It consists mostly of meat cooked for many ours with rice, butter and lemon. The Cretans love to use local ingredients, so most usually you’ll get it with goat meat or lamb.
Stamnankáthi
Stamnankáthi is an herb that has a little bitter but pleasant flavor. This plant grows only in Crete. It is usually served cooked, with olive oil and lemon and serves as an appetizer or an addition to meat.
Chaniotiko Bouréki
Chaniotiko bouréki is a casserole served in Chani and in the Chani area. The basic ingredients for it are: zucchini, potatoes and myzíthra cheese (one of Cretan cheeses). They are sandwiched with thin layers of dough and then baked.
Cuisine curiosities from Crete
- The average consumption of olive oil in Germany and USA amounts to ca. 0.5 liter per capita annually. In Crete it’s 25 liters per capita every year.
- The Greek Cretans eat the most fruits and vegetables in the Western world.
- The Cretan tomatoes have lots of anti-oxidants. Why? Because they grow naturally, without use of any hormones.
- Cows are very rare in Crete, because they have troubles moving on rocky terrain. Much more common are sheep and goats (they climb on trees!), so the traditional cheeses are made of their milk mostly.
- There are 1.5 million olive trees in Crete!
- It has been noted that the Cretan cuisine uses over 500 sorts of various greens and herbs (many grow only in Crete).
- In most of the restaurants grapes, other fruits or a small dessert are served as a part of the ordered meal, so there is no need to order them separately.
- Rakia (famous 40% alcohol beverage) is for Crete what ouzo is for the rest of the Greece.
Why Greece?
“Greece has everything what is best in the world”
Greece is a unique country, because of the atmosphere created by the people. They are very open, friendly, kind and have such a sweet approach to the visitors. Most of the Greeks speak English, what makes the communication so much easier (in comparison – it’s not so easy in Italy or Spain). And if they cannot understand your language, be sure that they will do anything to try to understand you, help you, advise and most of all – entertain you.
This was not my first time in Crete and I always had a feeling that when entering a shop, cafe or a roadside cafe I am always welcomed and automatically become a guest, who shall be taken care of. Not every culture has such hospitality rooted in the genes. This is the connecting point for Poles and Greeks – the guest is almost sanctity, you serve lots of food to him or her, seat at your own table and shower with family stories (and it doesn’t matter what language it is and if the guest understands it).
In Greece you easily meet new people and establish friendships. You just need a few moments to make friends with a lady in the shop, smiling waitress or a guide. I really admire them for not creating unnatural borders and that they bestow genuine interest on another human being.
There is one unique thing. It’s Greek sense of humor, very similar to Polish one. I love it that you can freely make jokes. Greeks are very good in irony and intelligent humor. They do not take offence, no sulks at all and they instantly catch the words and barbed jokes, what results in a really casual atmosphere.
Their attitude towards life, their calmness, smile, warmth, homemade meals they share eagerly and proposing toasts with strangers… It all makes you feel welcomed and a part of a huge, Greek family. And there is no exaggeration in my words.
Staying in Crete once more taught me a lesson and reminded me how important it is to take care of regionality, tradition, respect the cultural heritage and taking handfuls of it. And all of it filled with love of life, being there, eating and celebrating little whiles.
In Greece you can really feel the pride of the people of what they do, of their jobs, of their country, culture and products. So, any Greek you ask would answer you that “Greece has everything what is best in the world.”
And I, filled with astonishment, take all of this in and think that this is one of the best lessons you can get while visiting this country – how to be proud and create the sense of belonging to a social group.
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