Chichén Itzá in Mexico and the whole fuzz about it

In South, Latin and Central America one of the most fascinating thing to do, except discovering incredible environment, is in my opinion trailing the tracks of the ancient civilizations. The old Inca cities in Peru and of course breathtaking Machu Picchu impressed me very much, so I could not wait to see the treasures of Mayan culture in Mexico.

Two places were in my list most of all: probably the most famous Chichén Itzá and less popular Coba (read: less crowded – or at least I hoped so for). Both are famous of its enormous pyramids, however both have something unique and in my opinion it’s worth seeing.

Let’s begin with the most recognizable Chichén Itzá.

 

The hour of the visit is crucial

I reached Chichén Itzá after around a week in Mexico, driving from Tulum to Valledolid. I knew that this is one of the main touristic attractions in Mexico, so I was prepared for extraordinary crows. The common sense advised me to go there early in the morning, so theoretically then there would have been less people, most trips would not have reached the place and families with children would have not got their stuff together. Well… what of it, if sometimes motorcycle trips are unpredictable and you have to repair something on the road, check oil etc. Moreover, assumption that drive would take a said amount of time is usually inaccurate because on these lousy roads, driving a two-wheeler (packed to the last bit), you won’t make it faster than a said speed. So long story short, we arrived around noon and I swear, it was indeed a stupid idea. In my entire trip in Mexico I haven’t seen such a crowded place (night clubs in Cancun don’t count!). You know what effect screaming, rowdy lines of tourists have on me – like a red rag to a bull.

The moment I saw a 100-people long line, meandering in a full sun and plus 30 degrees, I wanted to take to my heels and run like hell. But Alex’s face saying “don’t even try it if you dragged me all the way here” effectively ruined this plan and quiet as a mouse, tail between legs, I took my place at the end of this procession.

In fact, it went quite smooth and we waited there no longer than 40 minutes (although I already started hoarding snacks for hours-long camping). The line was only a part of the fun because the size of the crowd among the ruins beat everything.

Right behind the entrance to the park you shall expect dozens of souvenir stands and sellers shouting one another down. Thing we all come there for – the main pyramid – is at the beginning of the area, so after a few steps it begins to show itself in all its glory.

>A little bit of history

Chichén Itzá, a pre-Columbian city found by the Mayans, was created between 4th and 6th century. What is left of it can be divided into southern and western part, connected with Mayan culture and the northern part – this one is bound up with the Toltecs. The name of the city was borrowed from the names of two sacred water bodies, next to which the city was built (name Chichén Itzá means Sources of Itzá People).

The city flourished between 10th and 11th century. In 13th century it began losing its importance and in 15th century it became fully deserted.

Not until the first part of 20th century the archeologists were able to organize excavations here, during which they slowly discovered the treasures of rich Mayan culture. This city displays all the typical Mayan architecture, so low buildings with smooth walls. It was a success and many magnificent objects were dug and preserved: the biggest ullamalitzli pitch (150 meters long) in Mesoamerica, Temple of the Warriors (Templo de los Guerreros), Plaza of a Thousands Columns and the Temple of the Jaguar, as well as the symbol of this place, known from all the pictures – El Castillo – Kukulkan Temple, known as the Castle-Temple.

From close up it seems smaller than in pictures but it is remarkably restored and preserved, so you can really imagine the architecture of its times.

Modern fight for life 

The temple was erected on top of a step-pyramid, consisting of nine terraces. 364 steps lead to the top and the last 365^thstep (so the number of days in a solar year) is the entrance to the temple.

Those who seek prickle of excitement should visit El Castillo in March or September, during the annual equinox. At sunset the interplay of light and shadow creates spectacular snake effect, which slowly climbs up the stairs… (it is said that this view sends shivers up and down your spine).

Once it was allowed to walk on the steps of the pyramid but after a lethal accident of one tourist it is forbidden. Nowadays the fight for life and death happens at the foot of the pyramid. That is to say – everyone fights for a perfect, solitary picture there. Let’s be honest – it has to be a miracle. But I experienced this miracle. It fell on me from the sky like a Mayan sun and made all the people around vanish from the frame for about 4 minutes. I was sure to use this one-time chance and took loads of identical photos (come on, anyone who wouldn’t do the same, cast the first stone!).

I tell you, it was a miracle, because Alex (along with me, cause someone had to take the picture) waited for another “window” for 30 minutes (boy, life of a travel blogger might be miserable sometimes :D).

When, showered with humiliation after waiting for the perfect frame, we ended this farce, it was not much left to do than to stroll among other buildings like regular people. And there is a lot to see.

Other fascinating buildings in this Mayan city

The biggest impression on me was made by the ullamalitzili pitch, which is 150 meters long. In the symbolism of the Mesoamerica peoplethis pitch illustrated the universe, the ball was tantamount to the Sun or the Moon, while the play itself symbolized the uncertainty of fate and the fact that chance and coincidence decide about life and death.

The goal of the game was to put a rubber ball into a small, stone ring, placed high above on the wall – without using feet or hands.

I stood there, looking at these stone rings wondering if anyone ever succeeded. I was not surprised that this symbolism depicted chance and coincidence.

Allegedly, some of the games were played in order to settle disputes between rival cities or as an alternative to war. They say that “sport soothes the savage beast” but on the other hand some sculptures suggest that the captain of the winning team was usually beheaded, giving him the honor… Well, Mayans were quite bloody in their actions.

The other building you can’t miss is the impressive Temple of the Warriors with Hall of a Thousand Columns.This is a huge area with 200 columns standing in rows, which could have been a marketplace or a meeting place. On the southern parts of the columns there are bas-reliefs of warriors. The columns used to support a roof, which unfortunately did not make it till our times.

You should definitely see El Caracol – that is the Snail  – a round tower, 12 meters high and 6.7 meters wide in diameter, erected on two terraces. The level of architectural advancement of the Mayans is incredible. Inside this tower there is a spiral stairway, leading to the upper chamber. It was probably used as point of astronomical observations.

What to prepare mentally for?

When it comes to technicalities about this place, the stalls jammed between the monuments disturbed me the most. I understand the necessity to sell souvenirs and create jobs for the local people but why not to put these stalls in front of the entrance? At some point it is so absurd that the area of the ancient city looks like a marketplace and there are more stalls than monuments.

On the top of that, everyone is blowing these stupid toys, imitating the sound of a jaguar in the jungle, making everything even more chaotic.

And this is really a pity, because in the year I was born (1988) the archeological excavation site of Chichén Itzá was listed in the Unesco World Heritage site and on 7th June 2007 this place was announced one of  the seven wonders of the world. It definitely deserves special care and respect. All in all, what is left of the fascinating Mayan culture?

Exploring Chichén Itzá – practical tips

• “Chichén Itzá“ can be visited 365 days a year.
• Opening hours: 9 AM – 5 PM
• The best hours: none JBecause this is one of the most popular places in the Yucatan Peninsula, you have to be mentally prepared for crowds, crowds!, of tourists. Some friends told me that morning is best, others than it’s as lousy as any other time of the day. So… no one knows for sure. There would be a crowd and that’s it. You just have to survive it. Especially in the peak of the season.
• Prices: at the beginning with 2019 the entrance fee is going to amount to 480 pesos
• Climbing the pyramid is strictly forbidden.
• At the entrance there are safes for bags and suitcases.
• There is a huge parking lot right next to the entrance.