You know I love the nature and the older I am, the deeper my love is. Recently I’ve noticed that one of my main travel guidelines is the time spend in close surrounding of nature. Only then I feel like my journey carries within itself the true beauty of our world :) It was the same with Croatia. I adore Croatian cities and their architecture, however after a few days I feel like escaping all that babel, crowds and rush. During my last stay in Croatia I discovered Mljet island – one of the greenest and naturally diversified areas in Croatia. Many people consider it one of the most beautiful and well, now I am among those people :)
It’s located near Dubrovnik, Pelješac Peninsula and Korčula Island. It’s a perfect place to relax after pretty intense exploration of the coast monuments. Having visited overcrowded Dubrovnik, such silent hideaway was a dream escape for me.
Mljet is well-connected with other ports of the Croatian mainland (you can find a timetable here). I got to the island on a ferry. I’ve rented a car so it was my only option to take it with me.
The island is quite small and you can find there rather private rooms than large hotels. I’ve found a great flat in a small village of Sobra. Two rooms with fully-equipped kitchen and something that definitely convinced me to go for it – two terraces with a stunning bay view (look here).
Ideal for reading a book and slow wine sipping while looking at sunsets. It’s exactly my kind of relax.
The house where my flat was had a private stairs descending directly to the bay, so in the morning I just had to run down a few steps and there I was, diving into the crystal clear azure Croatian water.
Sobra is inhibited by only 131 residents, hence the whole village can be embraced with one good look. There are only two restaurants and 10 minutes of drive from the village there is a supermarket. You shouldn’t expect it to be well-supplied, especially when it comes to fresh fruits and vegetables. However, during my first day there I’ve met a charming woman selling her own products: preserves, cheese marinated in olive oil, olives and fruits picked up in her garden such as grapes, figs and apples.
After a few days we’ve liked each other so much that she started to pick the best products for me and I was head over ears supplied in Croatian goodies. By the way, the woman lives about 50 meters from the supermarket and she sets her stand out in front of her house, so if you’re there, it’s a must to visit her :)
Apropos the food. The island name Mljet comes from a Greek word melite – honey. Some time ago the island was abundant in wild bee hives living in old empty tree trunks.
The history of the island was turbulent and it dates back to Illyrian tribes who left their heritage here, for example stone buildings and tombs. The island was also mentioned in written documents from the Roman Empire period. This period left the island with a 1st century palace, bathhouses and remains of basilicas and fortifications in Polača. In 6th century Byzantines appeared on the island, 100 years later they were chased off by Slav and Pannonian Avar tribes. It wasn’t until the cusp of 11th and 12th centuries when Benedictines came to the island and took over control. They built here a famous monastery Sveta Marija (it’s included into the national park).
Despite the fact that weather conditions were ideal for rest, I really had to sightsee the island. I went for several car trips and I drove the length and breadth of it. It wasn’t a challenge since the island is small, so I didn’t spend much time in a car.
All those views were so worth starting the engine up!
Hills were paved with tiny red-roofed villages, green forests contrasting with azure water and white little boats dancing on the waves way off in the distance. Pure idyll. It was amazing just to be a part of it and drive ahead without any particular plan, stopping by overlooks, breathing in the fresh air and feasting eyes with colors.
Lakes Big and Small, linked with each other by a narrow channel, stun your eyes with their beauty. Unusual color and transparency of the water proves its cleanliness. Even a well-known oceanographer, Jacques Cousteu, claimed that seawater around Mljet is one of the cleanest waters in the world!
One day I headed out to southeast, to Saplunara village. There is a small but well-kept sandy beach which is rare in rather stony Croatia. Well, the beach was actually not of the great importance here. It was a splendid family restaurant – Stermasi, acknowledged as one of the best in Mljet. It’s outdoor, picture-postcard situated in pine forest with the bay view. The food is organic there and everything is prepared by the family, including the freshly baked bread. The menu changes every day and it depends on the fish or seafood caught. Lip-smacking!
The next day I spend in the national park occupying northwest of the island. This area is an extraordinary blend of history, culture and nature. Along irregular coastline there are numerous caves, rocks, cliffs and islands, all of it surrounded by a thick pine forest hiding ancient monuments.
Trails in the park are well-marked and suitable for walking tours. A route to Pristaniste leads along the coast of Velikog Lake (Big Lake). Both lakes (Big and Small) connect at the Old Bridge (Stari Most). In the heart of Mljet National Park, in Pomena, there is an Odisej hotel where you can rent sports equipment, such as bikes, windsurfing boards, canoes, boats, jet skis, you name it. In a nutshell – everything allowing you to sightsee the park in an active way. I went for a bike. It was wonderful to explore the park while cycling. Pine trees shadow reprieved from the burning sun and singing birds brightened kilometers passed. Mljet is known as one of the best places in Europe in terms of bicycle touring and the national park paths are especially recommended by me.
If you dive then Mljet is a great place for you. The water transparency and rich fauna and flora provide you with spectacular views. What’s more, it’s truly worth it to dive inside the Veli Grad – Odysseus Cave. The legend has it that Calypso, who was in love with Odysseus, detained him there for 7 years :)
I’m delighted with the island. It has everything you need for a perfect rest – silence, peace, nature, breathtaking views and numerous ways to spend time actively and discover new places.
I’m sure that you’d also love it here. Definitely take it into account if you’re going to Croatia.
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